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When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.